This dress has killed me

This damned dress.

   It took me ages to muster up the energy to fit everything together once I'd assembled both layers of the dress because hand stitching is death... so I redid a few things I'd made a mess of with an older dress. By hand. I'm stupid that way but refitting the arms by hand seemed easier than doing it by machine, especially since I just got a hang of how to refit them.

   It's not entirely historically correct to fit the layers together like I do with my dresses, but with a little help it is quite simple. All historical sources I've consulted point to there being linen undergarments and then a separate outer layer (and then another one after that), normally of wool with silk lining, except in some cases depending on wool fabric quality, but heeeeeeey! So what. I'm really not that strict on the details. This is more of an experimental hobby and even though the amount of money it costs is sometimes beyond absurd it remains only a hobby to me. I'm letting having fun be my first priority and money-worries my second. And I'm planning on having fun in my outfits. Also, I caught on to the idea to fit the layers together in an effort to have a way of not needing to use my modern bra underneath my medieval dresses (makes for a more historically correct silhouette). But that should obviously be something I solve with my linen underwear. It's much simpler (see: cheaper) to redo a linen garment than a wool one. I've done two dresses this way already but it's not quite working the way I want it to (in other words: I still need to wear a bra).

   Just like the people of the late 14th century I have a thing for buttons, and so I'm making my own buttons for the arms; nineteen on each arm in this case just up to my elbows.

   I took a short course on how to weave edges back in 2015 and have been wanting to try it since which of course is also an excellent excuse for buttons this time around. On the other hand this meant I needed a tape loom, something I don't own as of yet, so some improvising was at hand (it ended with me slaughtering a deck of cards, gluing cards together and then carving appropriate windows and holes in them). The books and history nerds I've consulted says the woven edge should be silk (or wool) so I invested in some real silk thread (I've used polyester thread on my previous dresses and didn't want to use wool this time).

   But before I could get to that I picked up on another project; a buttoned and lined liripipe hood. I don't have one and want one since there's nothing better to protect one's neck from the cold.
   My fingers hurt but as my mantra goes; "it'll look beautiful when it's done". So I picked up some old dresses that needed some loving and switched between projects as to not bore my restless mind with the hand sewing.








   And it did turn out beautiful! The hood looks much better than I expected, which is always a bonus (and deserves a friggin' gold star).

  Right! Back to the cotehardie! Weave edges. Yes. Good. Since I had already tried my simplified little tape loom on the liripipe hood (with worsted yarn) I had some idea of how to do it. I also knew that it was fiddly work but oh so worth it. At first I thought I'd use mixed colours but then decided against it (and regret nothing).

   IT LOOKS FUCKING FANTASTIC.
   Next step was to make lacing holes. Again, slow and tedious work, but it's the last piece of the dress I can fiddle together on my own. Just me, my bone needle, needle and silk thread. And then, THEN, turning up the skirt hemline and presto
    - a dress.
And I'm dead. Well, my fingers are.

I got distracted

   I've been working on and off with that new dress for The Medieval Week and honestly it's going really well but, as always, I got derailed somewhere along the process and just "had to" finish a few other projects...

   Two surcôtes in dire need of some finishing touches, my new red cotehardie at the right and a new liripipe hood in hand. I'm trying to jump from project to project to keep myself from getting too tired of the hand sewing. 

Celebrating Medieval Days

Along the Swedish west coast is Varberg and Varberg Fortress and just recently they had their Medieval Days. Starving for some "medieval" fun I donned my outfit and jumped on a train to meet up with some friends. Before reaching my destination I received more than a few giggling stares and I guess I can understand them... but you know me. "Smile and wave" is the proper way to deal with people. Once I arrived at the fortress I made the most of it.

One month until The Medieval Week.

I has a proud!

Feel the pride oozing off of me.

When I sew a new outfit I have a certain inclination to never finish it entirely but always leave one or two itty bitty details that stay unfinished for years. I've had this hobby for a while now but haven't gotten around to finishing a complete outfit until now. This weekend as by a miracle I got that wonderful ache to create and voilà! A completed late 14th century outfit. I fixed some details on my belt (belt, strapend and brass mounts have been lying around for two years), finally finished my St. Birgitta's cap (also two years in the making, effin' hand-stitching) and a veil (cheated a little and bought one from a friend despite having fabric for one lying around). With the belt purses hanging off the belt and my hair finally being long enough for plaits it really comes together.

It's warm as hell but looks amazing.

The friendliest picnic you've ever seen

Nordegravar, Visby, 2015

This must be what I look forward to most every Medieval Week; the huge annual Wednesday picnic in wait for the annual fire show (TRiX at their best, not very medieval but awesome, seen by about 7000 people this year. I don't have the words to describe it so go watch the 2013 performance here.). This is when round about 3000-5000 people sit down and eat together. Drink together. Sing and laugh together. I'm not usually a lover of crowds but THIS, this is the kind of crowd I love.

To Wisby my medieval friends!

I'll be off to Visby in the morning for the Medieval Week on Gotland. It'll be my tenth time attending and I will have to be honest and admit that it'll probably be the last time in a long while. I think I've said it before (a few years ago when I skipped a Week because of reasons, mostly life-related) but this time it's for real. I will most definitely visit Medieval Festivals and Fairs, but I'm aching for something new and invigorating.
So if you happen to know of a really nice, quirky and/or charming Medieval Festival I'm open to suggestions for 2016. Anything themed 12th to 14th century would be amazeballs. Or I'll just gather as much information as possible about some festival in the UK and throw myself right in there. What could possibly go wrong?

Suddenly: Dresses

I finally snapped a picture of my new 14th century medieval dress set. The green dress is a fitted gown, laced at the front and with buttoned sleeves, that is supposed to add the kind of bust support that makes sure you don't need modern underwear (I will add a picture of the fitted dress on its own later). My mistake was to lose weight after I made the dress so now it's not as supportive as it was before. Now I need to make some supportive medieval style underwear. Like this. The yellow surcôte is a project I also just finished by adding 'pockets' (slits in the fabrics for easier access to pouches hanging from the belt underneath) and embroidery. The surcôte is a bit short for the period when the longer the garment the better off you were money-wise. But I love this set. So comfortable.

Bleh.

The highlight of my year is usually any medieval themed market and/or festival that I attend and previously I've visited 1-3 of them each year. This year the only medieval festival that I'll attend is The Medieval Week on Gotland. As I write, it's four weeks away and I feel like shit because I haven't made any new clothes for this year's festival wardrobe. Actually, I'm still mending last year's clothes. Last year I made a wonderful green kirtle with hand-made buttons on front and sleeves. I loved it to bits. Quite literally. It's such an amazing dress I wore it for half of the week despite having loads of other dresses. So I'm mending it to be able to wear it again all the while daydreaming about what I can make with the big pile of linen and wool fabrics I bought last autumn in the post-medieval-fun state of euphoria. I imagine new kirtles, surcoats and kerchiefs. But I can't do it without help (an extra pair of hands is useful when everything is supposed to be pinned and fitted while on me for the most comfortable fit). I have one week of vacation time before going to Gotland and I seriously doubt that I'll manage any miracles. Especially since I'm making so much of the clothes (but not all since I'm more than a bit lazy) by hand. While I know that I shouldn't really feel bad about it I will (by all the gods, will I feel bad about it).
So yeah.
Here I am.

Again with these f-ing buttons

I'm working on a new project.

Well, in all honesty, it's an old project I'm remaking simply because the idea got stuck in my mind and wouldn't let go. I want this old surcôte of mine to be more British 1370's and less of the 1100's that it used to be. Just like last time it's a bitch to stitch but since I know how awesome it's going to look I also know it's going to worth every hour I spend on it.

This yellow thing right here. Looked pretty good. But I never wore it because it doesn't go with anything else in my medieval wardrobe.

So after unpicking the front seam I lined it with linen and hand sewed 42 buttonholes and as we speak I'm attaching the buttons. After I'm done with that I'm moving on to make slits that will serve as pockets of sorts. As this is the second layer and my belt goes on the first layer I'll be able to reach in through the slits and fetch things out of my purses. This was apparently very popular in fashion in Britain in the 1360's to 1390's and it looks absolutely dashing! Which is of course why I'd like to mimic the style.

Now, back to the buttons. All these f-ing buttons.

PB & J toast

Did you guys know that hand sewn fabric buttons look a bit like little squids?

And these are the big ones for the front of the wool kirtle. Twenty of them. Other than these, I've got smaller buttons for the arms, seventeen so far but I need at least nine more. At least. They're a total bitch to stitch. And don't even get me started on the linen dress with the lacing holes and everything. Ugh.

On the other hand, I recieved my new books on medieval fashion today. One of the two is on English fashion of the 14th century and I'm thrilled. Lots and lots of photos of illuminated manuscripts. Yeah. Definite nerd.

Sorry, I'm time-travelling

I'm sorry for leaving you guys hanging but I've been stitching lacing holes for a linen dress I'm making while also making fabric buttons for a wool dress that I'm also making. This means that my interest in medieval fashion has finally caught up to me in time to finish some new outfits for The Medieval Week on Gotland. I didn't go last year because after seven consecutive years I was feeling a little tired of it all and frankly, I didn't like that feeling. This year is very different because I really want to go. I want to wander around the beautiful town of Visby, wear my dresses, listen to the kind of music that makes my foot start tapping involutarily. I want to drink Kapitelhusgården's beer with my friends, I want to smell like burning wood for weeks and I want to saunter around the marketplace just to feel the scents of candied almonds and different foods. Oh, the overpriced food. Oh, saffron pancakes.

Week 32

The truth is that the coming week will probably be one of the toughest weeks of my life for the past ten years or so. I will have to work my regular job while taking care of my parents’ house with four different species of animals apart from the normal household stuff.

I attended the Medieval Week on Gotland (the largest medieval festival in Sweden) for the first time in 2005 and have attended every year since. It’s been a tradition, some years more to my liking than others but mostly that one time of year when I could pretend to be someone a little different from myself and meet new and interesting people that knew nothing about how boring I really am. It never turned out much like that, though I have made friends there that I generally don’t meet at all during the other 51 weeks of the year and it’s always that much greater seeing them after all that time.
And lets face it, I get to play princess in all the lovely dresses I make for eight whole days in the year and be out all night with my friends.

Last year I promised myself it would be the last year I’d attend out of tradition. I made a promise I wouldn’t go back until I ached to go there and ached to make clothes I’d be proud of, which is of course the reason I’m not there right now as the Medieval Week’s opening celebrations are about to commence in the lovely Visby of Gotland.

My parents and my older sister are at The Medieval Week as we speak. I don’t know what pisses me off more; that I recommended it to them or that I’m stuck guarding the house. I have a variety of issues with being on my own and would normally just sit on my wide ass when I’ve dealt with my chores but whenever I’m alone in the house I can’t seem to sit still for more than a minute at a time. I can’t even take the time to sit down to eat. I see all the worst scenarios flash before my eyes and imagine the oncoming catastrophe.
It usually goes well.

Also, I want to cut my hair.

Well hello Mr. Murphy

HAHA! Just when I thought that I had slipped out of the grasp of post-vacation deceases I’m hit straight in the face with one heck of a cold that’s about as comfortable as a woollen coat down my throat and the first urinary infection of my life (now I know I’ve got kidneys because... they hurt... a lot) – I’ll dedicate it all to Mr. Murphy and his stupid law.

It’s probably a sign of weak integrity sharing illnesses like that on one’s blog but I can’t help it. The last week has been one long struggle to keep awake and at least try to make sense. Not always successfully I might add. Now I know why I’ve been feeling weird and worn. Also, I know why it hasn’t bothered me that I haven’t said a word about my medieval adventures on Gotland; it’s a very important week of my life after all. It was great. I recommend everyone to get a taste of that certain feeling of belongingness that festivals of different styles bring. What I love most about the Medieval Week is the mix. Converse sneakers and wooden spoons. Cellphones and sitting on mantles. Cameras and eating with your hands. Awesomes.

On another subject, next stop: Gothenburg. On September 1^st I’ll get back to school. I’m still a bit uncertain if it’s a good thing or not.

Lättnad vs. ångest

Aha! Jag har överlevt ännu en Medeltidsvecka! Jag har aldrig haft såhär många blåmärken och skrapsår efter en medeltidsvecka innan, för hej jädrar vad jag har slagits med buskar, träd, stenar, vatten, dörrar, stolar och bord. Jag har heller aldrig kommit hem från Gotland utan att vara sjuk tidigare - ny upplevelse - jag gillar't.
Jag har kort sagt haft så jävla gött.

Mot Gotland!

Edited:
Och yr.no säger såsom såhär om vädret kommande vecka...
Söndag (idag): Regn. Regn under hela resan, sol vid färdens slut Visby.
Måndag: Molnigt och lite regn. Sol.
Tisdag: Molnigt och lite regn. Sol.
Onsdag: Regn. Moln och sol varvat, lite regn och BLÅSIGT.
Torsdag: Mycket regn. Molnigt, kalt och lite regn.
Fredag: Sol.
Lördag: Molnigt men uppehåll. Sol.
Söndag: Mycket regn. Stark sol bakom enstaka moln, regn vid hemkomst.
Så det låter som att vi kommer att få en blöt upplevelse. Mer cafésittande alltså. Dåligt? Subjektivt hörru.

Panic and the Hutt.

Using my last days before heading off to the Medieval Week on Gotland sweating by the sewing machine is kind of tradition by now. I’ve done it every year I’ve gone to Gotland so far; all seven of them actually (the seventh being this year - my first was in 2005). I’d like to say I’ve perfected panic-driven sewing. It’s down to an art.
I’ve made a liripipe hood in wool and a dress in cotton since Monday. The cotton dress might come to use if the weather’s sunny. My new hood has button running down the front and is mostly hand-sewn - which includes the buttons. I’ve wanted one for years and one’s got to go serious at some point.

Kungahälla regniga dagar

Har det någonsin varit en Kungahälla Medeltidsdagar då det INTE regnat hela helgen? Jag är helt ärligt tveksam till det. Gummistövlarnakom till idog användning. Leran stod upp till låren. Jag har åter lärt mig konststycket att gå på Bajamaja med blöt långklänning.

Fredag: mulet, kvavt, varmt med sporadiskt regn. Lördag: mulet, varmt med sporadiskt skyfall. Söndag: mulet, kallt, blåsigt, småregnigt så till den grad att vi gav upp och åkte hem. Men vi hann med lite grann innan dess: eldshow, marknad, sagor/teater, dans på borden, brända mandlar, barnslighet, öl, konserter, mycket skitprat och skratt - allt det bra.

Tack Lina! Du är fortfarande bäst som bokade vandrarhemmet!

Jag lyckades ändå få ihop ett hårnät till Kungahälla-festivalen som jag definitivt kommer att få dekorera. Det ser jäkligt tråkigt ut just nu men vad gör man när man inte har något kul att dekorera med?

Lördag kväll arrangerades en välgörenhetsgala för Friends emot mobbning. Väldigt känslosamt, väldigt lyckat. Vi tände självklart också ett ljus för Norges döda. Sen auktionerade de ut Niklas' kläder. Alla hans kläder. ALLA.

Hade vädret varit bättre hade det troligen varit roligare. Hade det inte varit helgen före löning hade det varit ännu roligare. Hade människan i info-boden vetat vad som stod i programmet hade det varit superbra. Ändå tyckte jag att det var en värdig förfest till Medeltidsveckan.
Om 12 dagar drar vi till Visby, Gotland.
Mera Medeltid! ...och lite Jessica såklart.

P.S. Börjar känna lite saknad tillbaka till Kalmar-helvetet. Inte staden. Bara det lösa folk man hade där.
Fia, kan du inte komma till Visby också?!

Wellingtons

Jag vet att det kommer att regna i Kungälv i helgen när det är Kungahälla Medeltidsdagar på Bohus Fästning (mest eftersom det gör det VARJE år och därefter lite för att alla vädersidor säger det) så jag har köpt nya snygga gummistövlar ("Wildflower - Cayenne High"; se nedan). Jag är ungefär 90% säker på att de kommer att fungera utmärkt i en blöt och hal stenfästning. De där sista 10% osäkerhet är för att de är tajta i skaften men har man klänning eller kjol spelar ju inte det någon roll att man inte får i byxorna i stövlarna.

Tog beslutet att köpa helgpass till helgen - man sparar lite på det. TRiX har eldshow på fredagkvällen och vandrarhemmet är bokat till på söndag = vi har en del att göra = AWESOME.

Efter det är det två veckor kvar till Medeltidsveckan på Gotland så Kungahälla fungerar som förfest. Antingen kommer jag redan vara trött på medeltid då och hänga med Jessica i secondhand-butiker/fik istället eller så är jag taggad till tusen.

Jag fick frågan häromdagen (igen) varför jag tycker att det är så roligt att åka till Medeltidsveckan. Ja, varför är festivaler så roligt? För att man träffar drivor av trevliga människor? För att musiken är bra, maten är god och tempot lugnt? Eller helt enkelt för att stämningen är så feel-good att man inte vill åka hem igen? Det kan ligga något i det.

Men i år SKA (!) jag sluta var så lat och gå på Dick Harrisons föreläsningar på Sävesalen.

Jag hittade för övrigt en jättebra sida som staplar upp alla årets vikinga- och medeltidsmarknader/-festivaler. Den är sjukt användbar om man gillar att testa marknader i andra länder också. England's Medieval Festival vid Herstmonceux någon gång kanske? Lockande.

----
Edit 16-09-2011:
Eftersom någon frågade så ska jag berätta att jag köpte stövlarna på Scorett Outlet i Gällstad. Just det.

Neo-medieval workshop

In short it's been a really good weekend. Saturday was supposed to be some sort of workshop day together with some friends and family and it turned out great (even though we might have talked away most of the time and as hostess I might have run around a tad bit too much to be creative). We shared thoughts, laughed loudly, did some sewing and eventually ate together. I embroidered (a pattern not at all inspired by something I've seen on Boromir's suit of armour in Lord of the Rings) a wool tunic I've been working on for those cold evenings when I'm attending Medieval Festivals/Renaissance Faires...

...and today I'm trying out making sirwal (Turkish trousers from an awesome tutorial I found on Multiculturalism for Steampunk). They are nothing less than fantastic.

I've just finished them and I have a feeling that I will wear them with all the love you can give a pair of trousers as comfortable as these. I had to make mine with drawstring at the waist because of strongly fluctuating waist measures but drawstring's so very simple.


So in the end, it might have been quite a creative weekend after all. One white dress, one wool tunic, one pair of sirwal and repairs on some old garments I had stuffed away in a pile in a dusty corner.

Yeah, good weekend.

En ledig måndag

En ledig måndag efter en lång jobbhelg betydde för min del långfrukost och senare (modifierad, inte riktigt så sötsliskig) engelsk förmiddagsfika - té och scones med lemon curd.

Rågscones med smak av kanel och russin:

5 dl vetemjöl

3 dl rågmjöl

4 tsk bakpulver

1 tsk salt

100 g smör/margarin

3 dl filmjöl (i mitt fall laktosfri)

Kanel, kardemumma och russin efter smak.

Solrosfrön till att lägga på bullarna/bröden.

I mitten av ugnen på 250 grader i ca 10 min.

Sen var det bara att göra som man blivit tillsagd - jag bor här gratis i utbyte mot att jag hjälper till - ut med hundar på promenad och dammsuga hela huset.

Imorgon blir det lite jobb och sen ska jag försöka att börja ta tag i medeltidsgarderoben lite smått. Boendet till Medeltisveckan är bokat sen två veckor tillbaka och snart är färjebiljetterna bokade också. Vi jobbar så.